Skincare Hero: Bakuchiol

What is bakuchiol?

This trendy active ingredient is being highly celebrated in the beauty industry. It is sourced from the leaves and seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. The annual plant is native to India and Sri Lanka where it reaches a height of between 50 - 90 cm with short, condensed pale-purple flowers. Bakuchiol stems from the Sanskrit term for plant: bakuchi or babchi.

Psoralea corylifolia has been used in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine for years. The plant contains numerous phytochemicals, including flavonoids, coumarins and meroterpene. Bakuchiol is abundant in antioxidants that protect the skin against pollution and free radicals.

Skincare benefits

Due to its composition, bakuchiol is a true, gentle and natural alternative to retinol. It is a functional analogue ingredient it similar in structure to retinol without the harsh effects that the latter ingredient may cause.

Retinoid is a synthetic yet highly effective version of vitamin A with several anti-aging benefits but should be used with caution. It is simply not suitable for sensitive skin types as it can lead to irritations and cause photosensitivity that results in a phototoxic reaction on the skin.

Bakuchiol, on the other hand, is a natural, relatively new skincare active that offers the same benefits as retinol without causing the side effects.

Bakuchiol is recommended for:

• light-induced hyperpigmentation
• fine lines and wrinkles
• damage to skin elasticity and skin texture
• matte, lacklustre complexions
• acne

The natural retinol alternative is well tolerated by the skin - including sensitive skin types. Furthermore, it does not have a photosensitising effect on the skin like its synthetic counterpart. However, it is not advised to expose the skin to the sun without sun protection. UVA rays have been proven to cause skin aging and sun damage . therefore, sunscreen should always be part of your morning skincare ritual - whether tbakuchiol is being applied to the skin or not.

Additionally, bakuchiol possesses good photostability which means that the effect of the active ingredient is not inhibited by UV rays. Thanks to the antioxidants contained, bakuchiol protects the skin against free radicals.

Bakuchiol works well in conjunction with other active ingredients which is why there are virtually no limitations, to date, to using it in combination with cosmetic products that contain active ingredients. It is merely advised not to use enzyme or acid peels at the same time as this may lead to photosensitivity on the skin.

Psoralea corylifolia extract promotes the integrity of the extracellular matrix. It reinforces skin density by firming the connective tissues through stimulating collagen synthesis. At the same, bakuchiol stimulates the regenerative process of the skin which leads to renewed radiance and even skin tone. Pigmentation spots are thus reduced while the complexion takes on a firmer and fresher appearance.

Even acne-prone skin can benefit from bakuchiol and is a fantastic alternative to salicylic acid. The active ingredient is active in all four steps of the acne process: it minimises the formation of comedogenic material in the pores, counteracts excess sebum, possesses anti-inflammatory properties and has a positive effect on pigmentation caused by irritation.

Bakuchiol in beauty routines

Following a consistent and daily beauty routine in its entireity is essential for a beautiful-looking complexion. A mild yet thorough cleansing regime and protection against UV rays are indispensable skincare steps. Bakuchiol is often used in form of serums that are applied after cleansing the skin and prior to using moisturisers. If you are short on time or prefer a more minimalistic approach to your skincare routine, simply mix a few drops of a bakuchiol-based serum to your daily moisturiser or night cream. Follow up with a sunscreen in the morning to preserve the beauty and health of your skin.